Kenya - They were soooo nice!
I’d like to start off by telling you how nice everyone was in Kenya. From the flight over to the flight back, they were the most pleasant people to deal with. A note on the flights, we flew Delta to NY and Kenya Airways the rest of the way. By booking the flights through Kenya Airways, I saved $1600 on the flight tickets alone for the exact same flights listed on Delta’s web-site. Kenya Airways flight attendants were wonderful, attentive, and very friendly. I flew coach and it was a 14-hour flight from NY to Nairobi, but they moved us around so we almost all had an entire row to ourselves. I met up with one of my fellow travelers in Atlanta. It was nice not to have to travel alone 1/2 way around the world to a country I’ve never visited.
After arriving in Nairobi, our driver picked us up at the airport. We used Seven By Far Tours, https://sevenbyfartourskenya.com/, as our local guides. The traffic in Nairobi is a nightmare, and I’m glad I wasn’t driving. The driver carried our luggage, and when we arrived at the Sarova Panafric hotel, the hotel staff grabbed our luggage out of the car. I didn’t touch my luggage again on the trip except to exchange clothes in and out of it. One fellow traveler used American/British Airways and never received her luggage. Always pack a change of clothes in your carry on when traveling abroad. DO NOT DRINK THE WATER. A yellow-fever vaccine is required, but you should also get the recommended hepatitis if you have time.
My first day there didn’t have a lot planned. One of the other travelers had arrived early, and the two of us visited the Karen Blixen Museum, think Out of Africa star, and was amazed at the restoration of the house. It’s well worth the trip to visit if you have a chance. The hotel provided the car to and from the museum. We tipped, but the service was free. Dinner in the Flame Tree restaurant in the hotel was very good with a wide variety of dishes. Everything was in English, and the hotel staff all speak English. The gift shop was very reasonable and had a wide assortment of trinkets. Tips are collected at the front desk and divided equally amongst the workers. I was told that $5 USD daily was the normal amount, and that makes up about a day’s salary for some.
Our first stop on the trip was the Ol Pejeta reserve where we were glamping. The tents were very nice with sturdy roofs covering the top of the tent. Unfortunately, a hyrax had made a home between the two on my tent, and spent the night running back and forth. After figuring out what was up there, I finally got some sleep. The tents are all on a walkway around a watering hole (separated by an electric fence), and you can walk around freely to take pictures of the animals who frequent the watering hole. The restaurant was very good and opened up to the same watering hole. We spent a couple of days doing safari runs from before sunrise to after sunset daily with Seven By Far drivers. The safari trucks are open on the sides and the top allowing you to get great shots in just about any direction. It is dusty, and while we were there, it wasn’t very hot. actually a little chilly in the early mornings, but great for shorts and t-shirts the rest of the day.
We stopped at Nanyuki which is located on the Equator. One of the gentlemen there gave us a demonstration of how the water circulates clockwise/counter-clockwise/or not at all depending on which side of the equator you’re standing on. The local vendors will drive you nuts trying to sell you souvenirs. They like to trade pens. Also, not all people in Africa want to have their picture taken. Always ask first. We saw some bizarre stuff while traveling so keep your eyes open and don’t be afraid to ask. There was a herd of camels being driven down the highway. Two guys on a motorcycle had a goat between them presumably to be dinner. There are coffee farms along the way. The American Del Monte vegetable companies have 35K acres of farms in the area. There are also a lot of convenient stores along the way that you can stop for restrooms and snacks.
One of the most significant observances I had was the difference of lifestyle between Nairobi and the outlying areas. The cities are much more developed and have pretty much the same amenities you would expect in the US. Once you get 5-10 miles outside of Nairobi, the difference in lifestyle is dramatic. This is a 3rd world country, and they live a very primitive lifestyle. There is no welfare/government subsidies in Kenya, and many people are selling wares along the highway. Shopping malls are stalls along the highway including grocery stores. Do not expect luxury. Gasoline is very expensive even being so close to the oil producing nations, something we take for granted.
Our next stop was at Samburu National Reserve. Again, we spent all day every day in a safari vehicle taking pictures. The lodge at Samburu is very nice, and the employees have to keep the baboons away from the al fresco dining hall. You have a fantastic view of the local wildlife from the dining hall and the balconies of the rooms. Leaving things hanging on the balcony isn’t recommended. At night, the roof comes alive with the scuttling of bats and they all leave at once creating quite a fanfare. The food was pretty good.
Our third stop was at the Masai Mara National Reserve and stayed in a Maisha Mara Camp, a luxury tent camp near the National Reserve. These tents were amazing, but a long walk from the lodge. It’s a very large resort and has all sizes of tents for singles and/or families. The animals do come up very close and are restrained by an electric fence, but you will hear them at night. Walking around the camp I saw quite a number of beautiful birds. They seemed to gather around the pool. The restaurant provided so many options in the buffet lines. You could pick out things from the buffet and have them added to a pizza, pasta, or stir fry. Desserts were delicious and the staff was so friendly. They provided us a thank you dance and cake on the last night of our stay. Most of the resorts cater to the Indian visitors, and many of the dishes on the buffet are curry based but very tasty.
It’s important to keep your eyes open while at the various locations. On this particular trip, there was a hoard of bats hanging in the trees. Monkeys will steal things out of your vehicle and out of your hand if you don’t pay attention. While we didn’t see any snakes, that’s not what you have to worry about. Do not get in the water unless it’s a pool. The crocodiles aren’t the most ferocious animal, the hippos have them beat. Also, lions do get in the water and we saw a price crossing a river.
While at the Masai Mara, we visited the Masai Mara Village (Villaggio Masai). For $35 USD, they will allow you to enter the village, give a performance of their dance, and share their culture/homes with you. The men used to kill a lion to prove how masculine they were. Now they perform a jumping contest and the winner is the highest jumper. They live in crude mud huts, but they include satellite TV and solar panels for electricity. The Masai Mara dress in very colorful blankets. Our driver brought blankets for each of us to keep warm in the mornings as it was quite chilly.
Our fourth stop was Amboseli National Park. We stay at the hotel on the grounds, and had to remain vigilant with the vervet monkeys. Upon opening the door to the balcony, my co-traveler found her room invaded. On one trip to my room, a gang of vervets tried to force me to give up my orange. Now I know why they give you a club as a keychain (no monkeys were injured on the encounter). The hotel was very comfortable, and again, the food very good. The gift shop cashier gave me a ‘Roll Tide’ when I told him where I was from.
The last stop was at the Nairobi National Park. By far the fewest animals, it was interesting to shoot the skyline of Nairobi. There are a lot of locals in this park, and it was very busy. Being the last stop, I was dropped off at the Carnivore Nairobi restaurant for dinner. This is a Brazilian type steakhouse where you can eat yourself silly on the meats. You simply keep your card on green while you’re wanting more meat, and they bring you a variety of dishes to slice off right into your plate.
NOTES:
Lions will come right up to your vehicle. They don’t typically attack, but are looking for shade. The lion may be King, but the lioness is the Queen and she rules.
There are dozens of safari vehicles looking for the same family of cheetahs (or any other animal) that you’re looking for. They will park in the middle of your picture. Get over it.
Multiple kinds of giraffes and zebras.
Rhinos, baboons, and elephants will charge. Other animals may jump in your vehicle. You have to let them do what they want and you cannot throw them out.
Don’t waste your money/time on the night safari with the government guides. It was horrible with the guides basically harassing the animals.
Try the various types of food; you may find your new favorite.
Monkeys will steal anything not tied down, but are basically looking for food.
Your guide is the key to a good safari. Do they keep in touch with other guides. Do they make an effort to get you in the best position to shoot.
The roads are treacherous, unpaved, flooded, and will uproot your ancestors.
Amboseli means Plains of Dust. Bring a mask to wear.
Enjoy and take your time. We flew in bush planes from park to park while the drivers split up and brought out luggage. Airports are tiny, and you may have wildlife in the bathroom. Plan accordingly. We did stop at the Tanzania border and ran across far enough to say we had visited that country. No passport/customs check. This should be a trip where you plan 2-3 days in each park. There are many more parks and attractions we did not visit. I’d like to return to see the Giraffe Center (Appointments required), the great migration in the Masai Mara, and maybe some other parks.